Lucca
My mom and I first went to Italy in 2015, on a trip that was part cooking school, part Tuscan tour. We saw Florence, Rome, some of the smaller towns in the Chianti region, and Arezzo. I was smitten. I remember asking our driver one day what his favorite town in Tuscany was. He, being from Florence, said “Florence.”
“Besides Florence?”
His answer was Lucca, a city I had never heard of.
My next trip to Italy was with my husband and we did the big 3; Venice, Rome and Florence. But Lucca stuck in my head and when we talked about returning to Italy, it became the center of our plan.
An hour-
ish train ride from Florence, Lucca is the type of place that can define a real Italian experience. We stayed for a week at an apartment, wandering and relaxing on the ancient wall that surrounds the city (one of the few still intact), soaking in sun and (lots of) bubbles on the Piazza dell'Anfiteatro, shopping local vegetable stores and macellerie for provisions. I went to the alimentari Da Sergio so many times that they started to recognize me — if they ask if you’d like more flatbread the answer is an immediate yes. An Italian charcuterie lesson took place during every visit to the butcher who knew my name by the end of our stay. We ate at Trattoria da Giulio, found an “american breakfast” in the teatro that became my husband’s obsession, stuffed ourselves with triangles of pizza from Pizzeria da Felice, and scarfed down as much tortellini lucchese as we could handle, washing it down with a local wine made 15 km away. My very favorite thing is the afternoon passeggiata, where everyone walks before dinner. It’s you and… the whole town.
Lucca’s an ideal place to base yourself. We did day trips to Florence, including a Vespa tour that I loved so much we’ve done it twice. The breathtaking beauty of Cinque Terre is an easy get—we’ve done the full train ride through La Spezia and we’ve also hired a driver to take us. Don’t skip Porto Venere, it’s the overlooked city that shouldn’t be. Pisa is a half hour, Viarregio and Forte di Marmi are good day trips. And then if you head a bit north you’re in the hills. Barga is an undiscovered dream, with its own little Scottish expat situation.
While I’m dedicated to exploring all of Italy, I’ll always go back to Lucca. My dream is to spend 3 months there, really immersing myself in the culture, exploring the towns that dot the mountains and the villages that make up the coast. It’s la mia dolce vita.
Things I love:
1. The independent food shops. Meat, veggies, antipasti.
2. That Florence is so close but far enough away.
3. The wall. I can walk it a hundred times and see something new.
4. The anfiteatro with the restaurants and shops that ring it. Le Sorelle is my tableware obsession.
5. That I’m perfectly content to spend an entire day there without doing a single touristy thing.
Tips:
You don’t need a car — Florence is an hour by train, you can navigate to Cinque Terre easily, Pisa is also a quick get. But as in most Italian cities, you can’t drive in the center.
There’s a fountain in the middle of tow that everyone fills up water containers with. Super cold and refreshing.
If you’re going to Cinque Terre, you’ll have to do a little more than simply change trains. Make sure you do research.
There’s a bar in Piazza San Frediano that serves apertivo snacks in the fanciest spread I’ve seen. Worth paying a bit more for your Campari (that’s right) spritz.
Costa Rica!
Pura Vida
You get used to saying it, not because you feel like you should — more because after a couple of days, you embody it, just like everyone else.
I’ve been wanting to visit Costa Rica for years and it far exceeded my expectations, which were already sky high. It took about 10 minutes after landing in Liberia for me to drop my shoulders, loosen my jaw, and deeply breathe in.
Is there anything you can’t do in this small country sandwiched between Nicaragua and Panama? The physical experience is filled with coastlines on either side (Caribbean on the east, Pacific on the West), volcanos, and jungles. It’s the OG ecotourism destination, something that’s now become table stakes for many travelers. The country prides itself on how they take care of their land, animals and people.
I caught the beginning of the wet season. Depending on where you are, rain can fall for an hourish a couple times a day. Opposite from being a day-doomer, it helps cool the heat that comes with being in the tropics. But the best part is that the rain makes everything lush and green and, well, jungle-y. At the Hideaway Rio Celeste, my casita came with an expansive deck overlooking the jungle. Every morning was a symphony of gentle rain, frogs, birds and other creatures I couldn’t identify, all accented by a perfect cup of Costa Rican coffee. I’ve been to numerous yoga and meditation classes that attempt to imitate these sounds. Fail.
I started at El Mangroove in Guanacaste, only a 20 minutes drive from the airport in Liberia. It’s on a calm bay, where the water feels warm but refreshing. The highlights for me were the hammock in my room (didn’t know I needed this until now) and a sunset cruise. We took off in the afternoon and explored a couple of beaches. I swam up to one and discovered thousands of hermit crabs that ran away from me as I approached. It was as if the whole beach moved as they marched towards the forest to safety. The weather made for a beautiful sunset bathed in orange and purple, layers upon layers, as the sun slowly sank.
The second stop. The Hideaway Rio Celeste. I hardly know how to begin in describing this place. It felt like an old friend, intimate and joyful, manicured wildness. There are 26 casitas with either a forest or garden view. I could’ve stayed on my deck the entire time, but there’s so much to do here. We hiked Tenorio Volcano National Park to see the waterfall and where the rivers come together. The local lore is that when God was creating the earth, he used one river to wash off his brush (the brown one) and continued in the other (an amazing blue color). We tubed down the river, waving at monkeys, marveling at a sloth, discovering birds and frogs. I did see a couple of snakes on our nature hikes and respected their territory without any argument.
But let's talk about wellness. The yoga studio here was filled with jungle sounds and fresh air, an enormous space that truly allows you to connect to you. There are 2 classes every day and after your afternoon session, you can join other guests on a nightly walk around the property to discover the other creatures sharing the resort. The pool has 3 jacuzzis, each set at a different temperature. And the spa. It’s a SPA. A newer addition, the ultimate space for relaxation. The floor-to-ceiling windows in the treatment rooms overlook the trees and there’s a special spa hot tub that’s the GOAT of hot tub experiences. They had to pry me away.
My last stop was at Santa Lucia Jungle Haciendas, a newer property with exquisitely designed rooms. It’s a bit further south, still on the pacific side, in the jungle but 20 minutes from the coast. Part of the hotel is built around an old village with the original cantina intact, serving afternoon cocktails to cool you off after a trek across the hanging bridges belonging to the property. The pool here is fantastic- gorgeously designed, the kind of pool that gives you full permission to cancel everything else.
One thing I really appreciated at all of the places we stayed was the effort to allow local food traditions to shine. The daily catch starred in ceviches. Guacamole became a staple. Even pasta had a Costa Rican accent. But my favorite meal was a family-style dinner at the Hideaway, featuring homey traditional dishes like Carne en salsa, Pollo Achiotado, Heart of Palm Picadillo, and Chicharrones. I had no idea that heart of palm didn’t come in a can. Also, pro-tip: in the bar, they make the most delicious cocktails I’ve ever had. And I’ve had my share.
I’m so happy I went. Pura Vida isn't just something you say. It's a song. A lightness. An invitation for joy. It’s something everyone should know.
Things I loved:
1. SLOTHS
2. Being greeted everywhere with a cold fresh juice and cold towel. And fresh cut pineapple and watermelon at the end of every tour.
3. The colors; green, blue, purple, pink, yellow, orange, everything was vibrant and different.
4. The people. Warm and friendly, like family and not in a corny way. Genuine pride in their country. Eager to show you how special it is.
5. Gallo pinto. IYKYK.
Tips:
American currency is accepted, which means you won’t spend a ton of time looking for an ATM. At some hotels, it’s easy to add gratuities to the final charge.
Be prepared for the heat. It’s not going to be anything like what you expect. That’s why rain is very welcome.
There’s a lot of infrastructure improvements going on, which makes flying between destinations as appealing as driving. But if you do want to go by car, a driver is the way to do it.
The time zone makes it a fantastic alternative to flying to Europe, especially if you want to get some work done while on vacation (did I just write that?).
Hawaii!
This past winter we decided, rather late, to do a multi-gen trip to Hawaii. My husband had never been. Thinking that was a crime, my mother insisted that we all head over. Jeff chose March because, well, Minnesota winter. While Hawaii is a great destination at any time, March can still be a bit unpredictable. But nothing would deter us, once I set my mind to planning. We decided on Waikiki to bookend the trip, with a long 7-day stretch on Kauai in the middle.
Delta has non-stop flights from MSP, which is my jam. Have I mentioned that I heart Delta? As a luxury travel planner, I’m well aware that luxury means different things to everyone. One of my luxuries is a non-stop flight.
Waikiki is a vibrant hum of people, lights, water and all types of hotels. The Outrigger Reef was a lively hotel with a great bar and restaurant. I loved the Royal Hawaiian, the pink Grand Dame of Waikiki resorts. The room we had was spacious and steeped in history, evoking the feel of an old friend but with nice modern touches. Their beach access is probably the best in Waikiki, dotted with large pink umbrellas. The outdoor restaurant is great for people watching while sipping a mai tai as a guitarist and hula dancer seduce you into the island vibe. The Halekulani is also an amazing option, totally different feel- more modern, with an understated elegance. I loved all of their common spaces.
Unfortunately we were there during the huge rainstorm that hit Oahu, devastating the opposite side of the island. The cool thing about Waikiki is that every resort is like a mini mall so if you’re inside, you can wander through shops or else curl up with a book in a common space. A little soggy but still loving the aloha life, we packed up and headed to the airport.
Kauai was our next destination. Princeville to be specific. I hadn’t been since I was 16 when we stayed on the southern side of the island. We chose a condo rental for this leg since there were 4 of us and we wanted to occasionally cook.
Princeville is a lush onslaught of color and fragrance (a friend of mine described it as “ethereal” and I think that fits). Hanalei is the laid back beach town next to it, with Hanalei Bay being its star. We spent as much time as we could in the water, where you can see straight down to your feet no matter how deep. Surfers and beachcombers cohabited with a dramatic backdrop of mountains behind them. We explored the shops, restaurants and food trucks, feeling the tension of everyday life relax its grip.
While there I was able to do a site inspection of the 1 Hotel Hanalei. Stunning is barely enough to cover this gorgeous place. The property is thoughtfully absorbed by the landscape, making every bit of it feel exclusive but not intrusive. If you’re a spa person, happiness lives here. Everything exuded calm. If I go dark, look in Hanalei first.
We did a few other excursions once we pried ourselves from Princeville. Captain Andy’s dinner cruise on the Napali coast was something I would highly recommend if you go during the calm season (sorry, not March). Pro tip: make sure you get a seat in the back of the boat for the sail out. We made our way down to the south part of the island, Poʻipū beach, to hang out with some sea turtles and visit the charming old town of Kōloa. We found a great shop run by a local artist and a food truck park with a poke truck, deliciously fresh.
10 days didn’t seem like enough. Next time, I’d add on Maui or the big island, with an eye on the Fairmont Kea Lani andFairmont Orchid. Because if you’re going to fly that far, you should make the stay just a bit longer, don’t you think?
Things I loved:
1. The beauty of it all. Everyone says it’s beautiful but it. is. breathtaking.
2. That Kauai has a Costco. I know, I know, but when you have a kitchen and a week to cook, having the Costco for some staples is fab. The markets are really nice but as you might expect, pricey.
3. The roosters!
4. The people. Hawaii is known for its laid back vibe but everyone just embodies it. Don’t be in a hurry for anything, embrace it.
Tips:
Really think about your time if you’re doing multiple islands. Flying between them is easy but still takes up a chunk of your day, especially if you rent a car at the airport.
Don’t get a car in Oahu unless you really need one. Parking is expensive and there are a ton of car services available. We were able to have the driver that picked us up at the airport drive us for the rest of our trip (shout out to Jackie, let me know if you want his info).
Definitely get a car (JEEP!) on Kauai, trust me.
Don’t think too much (let me do that for you).
Amsterdam!
What a fantastic city Amsterdam is. We'd connected through Amsterdam many times but never actually explored it. We were headed on a cruise that departed from Amsterdam, so we decided to add a couple of nights.
I’m so glad we did. It’s a beautiful, walkable city, as long as you know how to dodge bikes. Canals snake through town, lined with houseboats. You’re surrounded by houses that have settled in with a charming lean here and there, as if eager to listen to your conversation about how lovely they are.
I deliberately chose a local hotel instead of a chain. The Pulitzer Amsterdam was everything I hoped—charming, unique, a maze of rooms, all with a story. The decor is eclectic, the restaurant is fantastic and it’s all in the middle of a vibrant neighborhood with small, hip shops and restaurants, before you hit the more tourist-filled city center. We found a great art shop called Rabbit House and chatted with the owner for a while before meandering off. We found souvenirs and of course some cannabis shops. The last night there we ate at Restaurant ‘t Zwaantje, which felt more like your Dutch grandma cooking for you than a cheffy chef.
Things I loved:
1. The canals (duh). Water is my happy place. The canals are a beautiful reflection of whatever time of day it is.
2. The Jordaan neighborhood (where we stayed). Arguably the most charming district in the city, all narrow streets and neighborhood cafes.
3. Stroopwafels. Who knew? Other than Dutch people, of course.
Tips:
If your connection is through Amsterdam, consider making it a stop.
The Anne Frank house is a wonderfully moving piece of history, a must.
Stay at one of the many independent hotels, they all have a unique charm.
Take a canal cruise, it’s the best way to see the city. There are many private ones but if you stay at the Pulitzer, they have their own boat that you can reserve.
Look out for bikes. They rule the road and it’s a hazard to not pay attention.
Paris!
Last year I was in Paris twice. Strangely, for someone who loves Europe as much as I do, I had never been. It’s been a dream destination and we were supposed to go in 2020 but the world had other plans. So 2025 was it.
Our second visit was after our river cruise with Ama. We jumped on a train from Basel to Paris, an easy 3 and a half hour ride. We grabbed a taxi outside the train station and drove straight into the glory that is Paris on our way to theHotel Lancaster. We were tired as we checked in and the staff could not have been more welcoming. Staying here is like staying in your own Parisian townhouse. The hotel is an old soul, inviting and elegant, modern touches melded with old school glamour. The rooms are large, with high ceilings, wood floors, fireplaces, crown molding and giant windows that open up to the street.
One way is the Champs-Élysées, the other, the 8th arrondissement. There are sweet details scattered throughout the property, like old fashioned light switches, antique furnishings and room keys that have satisfying heft, not a flimsy card.
We wandered through the neighborhood, finding a park filled with Parisians—joggers on the trail, groups of school kids, and kids squealing as they discovered the carousel anchoring the playground.
I have to talk about the restaurant. Breakfast was amazing. The croissants were impossibly flaky—I may have indulged in 2 or 3 each morning. On Sunday we had the Sunday roast, their version of weekend brunch. Pâté en croûte, beautifully done beef, sauteed mushrooms, roasted carrots and a chocolate pear tart. Heaven.
To work that off, we headed to the Marais neighborhood. Part of my job is to do hotel inspections and that day was Le Grand Mazarin, a must if you plan on staying in the Marais. Right in the middle of everything, boutique and playful. Little extras like an indoor pool and a speakeasy make it an experience rather than just a stay. We walked off brunch through the neighborhood then back to the Lancaster, as the illumination of the Champs-Élysées was starting. It was perfection.
The next day we explored Montmartre, stopping for lunch at Le Moulin de la Galette. French onion soup, Coq au vin, creme brulee and of course, champagne. The neighborhood was touristy but in a fun way, totally different vibe than the other places we had been. We picked up a trio of watercolors from one of the artists in the square, always one of my favorite ways to remember a trip.
Things I loved:
1. Wandering the streets of Paris. Sometimes we get too caught up in the “must-sees.” I feel the best way to get to know a city is to get lost in it.
2. How nice people were. Paris has a rep, deserved or not, for being an unfriendly city for tourists. I found almost everyone to be warm, especially if you try out a few French phrases (merci beaucoup goes a long way).
3. Coming back to the room. I used to say that a hotel is just a place to sleep but it’s not. It’s a place to exhale after a long day and I loved every minute we spent lounging in the elegance of it all.
Tips:
If you stay at the Lancaster, treat yourself to a massage in their spa.
Definitely do the Sunday roast, in the bar area if you can, it’s so elegant and relaxed.
Although Ubers are plentiful, we took cabs. In countries like France and Italy, I still feel more comfortable with taxis.
Spend some time, more than a couple of days. Paris is huge and there’s just so much to see.
Like other cities with great museums, you could spend an entire day in just one.
River cruising on the Rhine with AmaWaterways
I’d been cruise-curious for quite a long time but had never pulled the trigger. I was unprepared for the absolute delight that is river cruising.
The first thing you do is have your luggage taken to your gorgeous stateroom, unpack and head to the lounge for a drink. We were traveling with a group so we found our people, took in the exercise briefing (knowing that I’d make a half hearted attempt at the most to work out), then got ready for our welcome. The first night was somewhat of a blur, getting to know the ship, the cruise manager, the rhythm of what would come.
I’m not sure what I expected but whatever that was, it was exceeded in every way possible. The ship was beautiful and comfortable, surprisingly spacious. The weather turned out to be pretty darn nice for November, allowing us to spend time on our balcony (with a blanket of course) and up on the sun deck. There’s just so many comfortable spaces to hang out in.
Our second day included a cruise on the canals in Amsterdam with a hilarious guide. We boarded in time for lunch and set sail down the river, past quaint farms dotting the Dutch countryside. I actually did an exercise class on the sun deck, while the sun set. It’s not a bad way to get that cardio in. We also went through our first lock.
We had dinner that night at the Chef’s table. Whoa. When you enter the room you’re greeted with a glass of champagne as the head server explains your dinner and wine pairing. We had 7 courses of incredibly delicious food, my favorite dish being delicate shrimp ceviche. Stuffed, we wandered back to our room to wake up the next morning in Germany.
Cologne was a full day. A bigger city with an impressive yet imposing gothic cathedral, our guide explained the history of the town as they set up for both a German festival and Christmas markets. We stopped at Peter’s Brauhaus for a very, very German lunch, had excellent hot chocolate at a decades-old institution, Cafe Reichard, then made our way back to the ship.
We spent the next day sailing the stunning Rhine gorge, castles alternating with steep vineyards as wallpaper. Even in the dusty gray of November, it was beautiful. That afternoon we did a wine tasting in Rudesheim. If you look up “adorable German village” in the dictionary, this place is it. They were also setting up for a Christmas market to come, and it was nice to be there before it swells with crowds.
In the morning after breakfast (side note, I need someone to make those hash browns for me every morning), the rest of the boat went to Heidelberg but we were tired. Here’s the thing about intentional travel—make it yours. We didn’t feel like going on an excursion so we didn’t. We rested, because we needed it. And enjoyed the hell out of it.
Strasbourg… OMG can we talk about how much I loved Strasbourg? I might want to live there. Petit Paris, shops dripping with goodness, a gorgeous cathedral with the best clock. We had lunch in an old wine cave called Le Gurtlerhoft, where the portions of food were beyond anything a normal person could handle. Here’s a picture of the meat plate with sauerkraut and potatoes. For two. TWO. Back on the boat I swore that I couldn’t eat another bite but I partook in the farewell dinner anyway. Afterwards, there was a song trivia contest that was.a.blast.
Riquewihr, a sweet, storybook town. I could have wandered for hours but we needed to be back on the ship in time for lunch and… the ice cream party. So much ice cream. Later, we had our last amazing dinner complete with an anniversary cake made specially for us.
Things I loved:
1. App with daily updated schedule was great.
2. Our crew but particularly Finton, the cruise manager. A British, seemingly happier version of Russell Crowe (he also is a wine writer, check out some of his books!) he was a delight to encounter every day.
3. Little things: Laundry service was inexpensive and quick, every time you returned to your room, it was impeccable, surprisingly spacious rooms, really comfortable beds. The balcony. There’s nothing dreamier than watching the life of river towns as you float on by. The time we had to explore after a guided tour. The way you just felt taken care of.
Tips:
Do a river cruise.
Add on time in destination before and after.
Listen to yourself—if you need to rest, allow yourself that.
Plan on doing the tours but take advantage of the time you have to explore.
Be open to meeting new people but also, if you can, consider going with a group (book club, multi-gen, ladies group, it’s fun to be around people you know without having to be with them all the time).
