Paris!
Last year I was in Paris twice. Strangely, for someone who loves Europe as much as I do, I had never been. It’s been a dream destination and we were supposed to go in 2020 but the world had other plans. So 2025 was it.
Our second visit was after our river cruise with Ama. We jumped on a train from Basel to Paris, an easy 3 and a half hour ride. We grabbed a taxi outside the train station and drove straight into the glory that is Paris on our way to theHotel Lancaster. We were tired as we checked in and the staff could not have been more welcoming. Staying here is like staying in your own Parisian townhouse. The hotel is an old soul, inviting and elegant, modern touches melded with old school glamour. The rooms are large, with high ceilings, wood floors, fireplaces, crown molding and giant windows that open up to the street.
One way is the Champs-Élysées, the other, the 8th arrondissement. There are sweet details scattered throughout the property, like old fashioned light switches, antique furnishings and room keys that have satisfying heft, not a flimsy card.
We wandered through the neighborhood, finding a park filled with Parisians—joggers on the trail, groups of school kids, and kids squealing as they discovered the carousel anchoring the playground.
I have to talk about the restaurant. Breakfast was amazing. The croissants were impossibly flaky—I may have indulged in 2 or 3 each morning. On Sunday we had the Sunday roast, their version of weekend brunch. Pâté en croûte, beautifully done beef, sauteed mushrooms, roasted carrots and a chocolate pear tart. Heaven.
To work that off, we headed to the Marais neighborhood. Part of my job is to do hotel inspections and that day was Le Grand Mazarin, a must if you plan on staying in the Marais. Right in the middle of everything, boutique and playful. Little extras like an indoor pool and a speakeasy make it an experience rather than just a stay. We walked off brunch through the neighborhood then back to the Lancaster, as the illumination of the Champs-Élysées was starting. It was perfection.
The next day we explored Montmartre, stopping for lunch at Le Moulin de la Galette. French onion soup, Coq au vin, creme brulee and of course, champagne. The neighborhood was touristy but in a fun way, totally different vibe than the other places we had been. We picked up a trio of watercolors from one of the artists in the square, always one of my favorite ways to remember a trip.
Things I loved:
1. Wandering the streets of Paris. Sometimes we get too caught up in the “must-sees.” I feel the best way to get to know a city is to get lost in it.
2. How nice people were. Paris has a rep, deserved or not, for being an unfriendly city for tourists. I found almost everyone to be warm, especially if you try out a few French phrases (merci beaucoup goes a long way).
3. Coming back to the room. I used to say that a hotel is just a place to sleep but it’s not. It’s a place to exhale after a long day and I loved every minute we spent lounging in the elegance of it all.
Tips:
If you stay at the Lancaster, treat yourself to a massage in their spa.
Definitely do the Sunday roast, in the bar area if you can, it’s so elegant and relaxed.
Although Ubers are plentiful, we took cabs. In countries like France and Italy, I still feel more comfortable with taxis.
Spend some time, more than a couple of days. Paris is huge and there’s just so much to see.
Like other cities with great museums, you could spend an entire day in just one.
River cruising on the Rhine with AmaWaterways
I’d been cruise-curious for quite a long time but had never pulled the trigger. I was unprepared for the absolute delight that is river cruising.
The first thing you do is have your luggage taken to your gorgeous stateroom, unpack and head to the lounge for a drink. We were traveling with a group so we found our people, took in the exercise briefing (knowing that I’d make a half hearted attempt at the most to work out), then got ready for our welcome. The first night was somewhat of a blur, getting to know the ship, the cruise manager, the rhythm of what would come.
I’m not sure what I expected but whatever that was, it was exceeded in every way possible. The ship was beautiful and comfortable, surprisingly spacious. The weather turned out to be pretty darn nice for November, allowing us to spend time on our balcony (with a blanket of course) and up on the sun deck. There’s just so many comfortable spaces to hang out in.
Our second day included a cruise on the canals in Amsterdam with a hilarious guide. We boarded in time for lunch and set sail down the river, past quaint farms dotting the Dutch countryside. I actually did an exercise class on the sun deck, while the sun set. It’s not a bad way to get that cardio in. We also went through our first lock.
We had dinner that night at the Chef’s table. Whoa. When you enter the room you’re greeted with a glass of champagne as the head server explains your dinner and wine pairing. We had 7 courses of incredibly delicious food, my favorite dish being delicate shrimp ceviche. Stuffed, we wandered back to our room to wake up the next morning in Germany.
Cologne was a full day. A bigger city with an impressive yet imposing gothic cathedral, our guide explained the history of the town as they set up for both a German festival and Christmas markets. We stopped at Peter’s Brauhaus for a very, very German lunch, had excellent hot chocolate at a decades-old institution, Cafe Reichard, then made our way back to the ship.
We spent the next day sailing the stunning Rhine gorge, castles alternating with steep vineyards as wallpaper. Even in the dusty gray of November, it was beautiful. That afternoon we did a wine tasting in Rudesheim. If you look up “adorable German village” in the dictionary, this place is it. They were also setting up for a Christmas market to come, and it was nice to be there before it swells with crowds.
In the morning after breakfast (side note, I need someone to make those hash browns for me every morning), the rest of the boat went to Heidelberg but we were tired. Here’s the thing about intentional travel—make it yours. We didn’t feel like going on an excursion so we didn’t. We rested, because we needed it. And enjoyed the hell out of it.
Strasbourg… OMG can we talk about how much I loved Strasbourg? I might want to live there. Petit Paris, shops dripping with goodness, a gorgeous cathedral with the best clock. We had lunch in an old wine cave called Le Gurtlerhoft, where the portions of food were beyond anything a normal person could handle. Here’s a picture of the meat plate with sauerkraut and potatoes. For two. TWO. Back on the boat I swore that I couldn’t eat another bite but I partook in the farewell dinner anyway. Afterwards, there was a song trivia contest that was.a.blast.
Riquewihr, a sweet, storybook town. I could have wandered for hours but we needed to be back on the ship in time for lunch and… the ice cream party. So much ice cream. Later, we had our last amazing dinner complete with an anniversary cake made specially for us.
Things I loved:
1. App with daily updated schedule was great.
2. Our crew but particularly Finton, the cruise manager. A British, seemingly happier version of Russell Crowe (he also is a wine writer, check out some of his books!) he was a delight to encounter every day.
3. Little things: Laundry service was inexpensive and quick, every time you returned to your room, it was impeccable, surprisingly spacious rooms, really comfortable beds. The balcony. There’s nothing dreamier than watching the life of river towns as you float on by. The time we had to explore after a guided tour. The way you just felt taken care of.
Tips:
Do a river cruise.
Add on time in destination before and after.
Listen to yourself—if you need to rest, allow yourself that.
Plan on doing the tours but take advantage of the time you have to explore.
Be open to meeting new people but also, if you can, consider going with a group (book club, multi-gen, ladies group, it’s fun to be around people you know without having to be with them all the time).
