River cruising on the Rhine with AmaWaterways
I’d been cruise-curious for quite a long time but had never pulled the trigger. I was unprepared for the absolute delight that is river cruising.
The first thing you do is have your luggage taken to your gorgeous stateroom, unpack and head to the lounge for a drink. We were traveling with a group so we found our people, took in the exercise briefing (knowing that I’d make a half hearted attempt at the most to work out), then got ready for our welcome. The first night was somewhat of a blur, getting to know the ship, the cruise manager, the rhythm of what would come.
I’m not sure what I expected but whatever that was, it was exceeded in every way possible. The ship was beautiful and comfortable, surprisingly spacious. The weather turned out to be pretty darn nice for November, allowing us to spend time on our balcony (with a blanket of course) and up on the sun deck. There’s just so many comfortable spaces to hang out in.
Our second day included a cruise on the canals in Amsterdam with a hilarious guide. We boarded in time for lunch and set sail down the river, past quaint farms dotting the Dutch countryside. I actually did an exercise class on the sun deck, while the sun set. It’s not a bad way to get that cardio in. We also went through our first lock.
We had dinner that night at the Chef’s table. Whoa. When you enter the room you’re greeted with a glass of champagne as the head server explains your dinner and wine pairing. We had 7 courses of incredibly delicious food, my favorite dish being delicate shrimp ceviche. Stuffed, we wandered back to our room to wake up the next morning in Germany.
Cologne was a full day. A bigger city with an impressive yet imposing gothic cathedral, our guide explained the history of the town as they set up for both a German festival and Christmas markets. We stopped at Peter’s Brauhaus for a very, very German lunch, had excellent hot chocolate at a decades-old institution, Cafe Reichard, then made our way back to the ship.
We spent the next day sailing the stunning Rhine gorge, castles alternating with steep vineyards as wallpaper. Even in the dusty gray of November, it was beautiful. That afternoon we did a wine tasting in Rudesheim. If you look up “adorable German village” in the dictionary, this place is it. They were also setting up for a Christmas market to come, and it was nice to be there before it swells with crowds.
In the morning after breakfast (side note, I need someone to make those hash browns for me every morning), the rest of the boat went to Heidelberg but we were tired. Here’s the thing about intentional travel—make it yours. We didn’t feel like going on an excursion so we didn’t. We rested, because we needed it. And enjoyed the hell out of it.
Strasbourg… OMG can we talk about how much I loved Strasbourg? I might want to live there. Petit Paris, shops dripping with goodness, a gorgeous cathedral with the best clock. We had lunch in an old wine cave called Le Gurtlerhoft, where the portions of food were beyond anything a normal person could handle. Here’s a picture of the meat plate with sauerkraut and potatoes. For two. TWO. Back on the boat I swore that I couldn’t eat another bite but I partook in the farewell dinner anyway. Afterwards, there was a song trivia contest that was.a.blast.
Riquewihr, a sweet, storybook town. I could have wandered for hours but we needed to be back on the ship in time for lunch and… the ice cream party. So much ice cream. Later, we had our last amazing dinner complete with an anniversary cake made specially for us.
Things I loved:
1. App with daily updated schedule was great.
2. Our crew but particularly Finton, the cruise manager. A British, seemingly happier version of Russell Crowe (he also is a wine writer, check out some of his books!) he was a delight to encounter every day.
3. Little things: Laundry service was inexpensive and quick, every time you returned to your room, it was impeccable, surprisingly spacious rooms, really comfortable beds. The balcony. There’s nothing dreamier than watching the life of river towns as you float on by. The time we had to explore after a guided tour. The way you just felt taken care of.
Tips:
Do a river cruise.
Add on time in destination before and after.
Listen to yourself—if you need to rest, allow yourself that.
Plan on doing the tours but take advantage of the time you have to explore.
Be open to meeting new people but also, if you can, consider going with a group (book club, multi-gen, ladies group, it’s fun to be around people you know without having to be with them all the time).
